Today, Bespoke has become a hackneyed term in the industry of individual tailoring of men's clothing. But it loses its meaning whenever Made To Measure (MTM) the company uses it incorrectly. As it competes with the term "haute couture". There are many MTM companies in the field of tailoring using the word “Bespoke” incorrectly and vice-versa. As both these terms have their own clear definition and features. So, let’s discuss them in the write-up:
1. Measuring
Made-to-measure: MTM, consider a specific size to form similar shirts, say it could be 42, 44 or 46. As these are based on the specified size, so you can customize them as per your physique. For example, a tailor will modify standardized models by taking into account your forms such as the shirt length or shoulder width.
Please note that not all MTM companies make the same number of modifications, some put different restrictions when it is really worth making changes to the original model. Many do not touch on such important points as shoulder or armholes. A good criterion is to see how many measurements they take. Some MTM companies take 5-7 measures which not a very good sign.
Please note that not all MTM companies make the same number of modifications, some put different restrictions when it is really worth making changes to the original model. Many do not touch on such important points as shoulder or armholes. A good criterion is to see how many measurements they take. Some MTM companies take 5-7 measures which not a very good sign.
Bespoke: A new model is created individually for every customer bespoke mens shirts, do not allow modifications or use of base models, since this may prevent the tailor from noticing the slightest nuances of the client's figure. To achieve this goal, the tailor requires more information than just taking measurements (for example - sloping shoulders, backbend, protruding hips, etc.)
2. Fitting and Style
Made-to-Measure: In general, there are no particular fittings required in the process of cutting and sewing MTM shirts. As the first stage belongs to measurements and creating a sketch and the final involves fitting after everything is ready. Customers can modify their measurements, depending upon the accuracy of the customer’s measurements/preferences, which adds another fitting at the end.
Bespoke: Bespoke requires several fittings in the process of creating things. This is where Bespoke is ahead of MTM, and why many insist that this is premium quality. First, it is the basic fitting, secondly, the preliminary fitting, and, third, the final fitting of the finished product. They are all carried out at different stages of creating a piece of clothing. I heard that some bespoke ateliers make even more than 5 intermediate fittings. These fittings are done to ensure that the measurements taken at the beginning are correct - tailored shirts Sydney achieve the most accurate fit for each fitting.
3. Select Fabric
MTM: Usually, the recommended choice that comes under this range is from 1-3 fabrics. Again, some MTM companies offer more and some less. To be more precise, we are not talking about any proposed brand. We are talking about the proposed fabric. This is important for selection, but also for price and quality orientation.
Bespoke: Most bespoke stores have over 10 fabrics to choose from.
4. Accessible Design / Personal Adaptation
MTM: There is a list of available options with a list of inaccessible. Always in the first list: the number of buttons on the shirts, the type of pockets, cut options, and cuffs. Sometimes options are available: button layout, neck height. In the list of unavailable options, everything is rare which requires a great explanation.
Bespoke: There is no restriction, regardless of the level of difficulty.
5. Everything at One Place
MTM: You can meet with a store worker or sales assistant who is trained to take measurements and transfer them to the chief production manager / chief cutter. The level of training among such employees varies greatly.
Bespoke: You personally meet with the person who will be responsible for your patterns. Ultimately, a person who cuts out clothes and performs work on their creation will always have more control over the situation and have great opportunities to meet specific needs and various forms of the customer.
Which is Best For You
Bespoke will never be publicly available or in massive. Due to this reason, they always charge high prices. Whereas MTM is an interesting transition between ready-made clothing (off-the-rack (OTR) and bespoke, but it is important to note that not all MTM companies are the same.
MTM is the choice of those who do not have enough time or opportunity. It is much easier to consume semi-manufactured goods than to enjoy and accept the bespoke custom tailoring process. Although these are probably not completely impartial.
In my opinion, the limitations in OTR offer the advantages of MTM and bespoke. I do not think that it is reasonable to pay more than $ 200-400 for an OTR shirt and $ 300-500 for an MTM shirt. Here you are in the territory of bespoke men's shirts. There are exceptions to this rule, but not many.
Comments
Post a Comment